I just wanted to take a moment to tell you how much I am impressed with the great job you have done with Lila, my competely deaf and partially blind aussie.
I was a little apprehensive about leaving her for the ruff love program and spending a month away from us. I didn’t want her to think we had abandoned her. However, I see how much you have loved her and taken such great care of her that I feel completely at ease that I made the right decision sending her.
I wanted to tell you that you have done a fantastic job with Lila and I look forward to you guys doing a fantastic job with Gussie too! Both of my dogs have a special meaning to me.
Thank you for taking such great care of my two four-legged children.
-- Laura & Katie Hohl - Rancho Santa Margarita
RESOURCE GUARDING
Resource guarding is when a dog guards a valued object from people or other dogs. This object can range from food bowl, spilled dog kibble, training bag, treats, bones, kongs, latex toys, balls, sticks, Kleenex, illegal items (kid's toys, laundry, diapers), dog bed, furniture, crate, car, favorite people or favorite hiding spots. Some dogs will guard their own body space and be resistant to certain kinds of body handling or guard their owners space, especially when on a leash. Resource guarding is actually a normal guarding behavior in dogs that is taken to the extreme. Some dogs can be genetically programmed to be more susceptible to this extreme behavior but the environment in which they live and early training also play a role. Dogs with varying temperaments can exhibit this behavior, not just "dominant" dogs. Many resource guarding dogs exhibit other problems such as a lack of confidence or submissive urination which opposes the theory that resource guarding is a "dominance" issue. Resource guarding is an extremely serious issue that should be immediately addressed with a Wags & Wiggles behavior consultant before any action is taken.
Signs of ritualized aggression:
Level 1: Freezing when people or other dogs approach the guarded object. If the dog was chewing, he stops chewing and stares directly at the approaching threat.
Level 2: Accelerated consumption. If the dog is eating or chewing, they accelerate their actions as the person or dog approaches. Some dogs will try to swallow even a large object.
Level 3: Low, steady growling can occur by itself or combined with freezing or accelerated consumption.
Level 4: Snarling is exposing the teeth by retracting the lips. This may occur by itself or in combination with other threats.
Level 5: Snapping is usually an air-snap. This is still a warning since when dogs want to bite, they actually bite and don't miss. The dog will sometimes leave the object, air snap at the approaching threat, and then return to the object.
Level 6: Connected Bite: At extreme levels, some dogs will guard a large space or entire room that the guarded object is in. Some clients report walking into the room and the dog charging and biting them (with punctures). If a dog has a history of puncturing, the dog has a high potential to puncture in the same manner again in the future.
Indicators of successful treatment:
Number of triggers and successful identification of all triggers.
Owner commitment and compliance. Ability to manage dog and keep the public, other family members, and other dogs safe from potential harm that may be caused by their dog.
Bite inhibition, severity of bites, history of bites and presence or absence of warnings before bites.
Dog size, impulse issues, self control issues, and learning ability.
Family members. Children should never be exposed to same level of risk that adults may be willing to accept.
Behavior Modification Methods:
Desensitization: a technique used originally with people who have phobias. Used with dogs to expose them to a fear evoking object or situation at an intensity that does not produce a response. With a food guarder, you don't want to start with the dog eating a high value rawhide and having a scary man walk up and take it away. You start at a lower level (with a lower value item and a familiar non-threatening person) because no good arises from letting the dog rehearse and perfect its usual growly behavior.
Counter Conditioning: one event becomes a predictable indicator of another event. With resource guarding, we work towards the person approaching the guarded object to mean a pleasant outcome for the dog. For most dogs when the leash comes out, it elicits an excited reaction since the walk that is coming is pleasant. Where a food guarder usually feels upset and tense when a person approaches him while eating, after conditioning he loves and looks forward to being approached while eating.
Desensitization & Counter Conditioning working hand in hand: Actual treatment is keeping the trigger (person approaching guarded object) at a low enough intensity (desensitization) to where a pleasant stimulus can follow and be effective (counter conditioning).
Teaching Commands: Improving obedience is also an essential element to treatment. This improves the relationship between humans and the dog and develops a communication system that doesn't involve force or getting into physical conflicts with the dog.
Treatment Plan:
Management means avoiding the problem or trigger through environmental control. Crate training or other confinement training can help during high arousal periods. Use of tie down (tether), gentle leader, or muzzle during treatment periods can lower the risk during treatment. Many dogs will need to be conditioned to the muzzle or they make act aggressive when trying to put on the muzzle. Management also means sometimes avoiding confrontation.
Example 1: Dog gets aggressive when on bed. The bedroom door is accidentally left open between training sessions and dog is now guarding bed. To avoid confrontation, owner should ignore dog and redirect him calling dog to the kitchen for a cookie or presenting the leash for a brief walk.
Example 2: A dangerous item (pills) is accidentally left out in between training sessions. This can't be ignored, so a "bait & switch" can be tried. Calmly distract dog with a more valuable item and take the dangerous item. Do not reprimand, confront, or wrestle dog. Although bribery is completely ineffective to change behavior, when you're in a jam, anything goes. Jams are not training sessions and only careful management can avoid jams.
You should be very aware of variables that will affect your treatment plan. Some dogs have small guarding radius of space (within 1 foot of them) and others have a large radius (the whole room). Whether the dog actual has possession of the item is a variable. Some dogs will accept you holding the item and sharing it. Only once they gain complete control of the item do they become aggressive. Some dogs become aggressive at the very sight of the item. This would require the dog be tethered during the training process and tossing the valued prize to the dog. Some dogs are more aggressive if you approach from a certain angle (from the back versus the side or front). You must take note of this and work through it. How long the dog has had possession of the item is often a significant factor to the level of aggression that may be exhibited. Some dogs become more aggressive the longer they have chewed on the item and some dogs become less aggressive because the novelty has wore off. Who does the approaching is also a factor. Most dogs will quickly become used to the owner doing the training lessons but becomes aggressive again once someone else tries to approach the dog. The last variable can be how warmed up the dog is. If you are already 10 minutes into a training lesson, the dog may be less reactive than the first trial of a training session. All these variables will affect your dog's reaction on a day to day, moment by moment basis. You should be meeting with a qualified behavior consultant to identify all of these variables.
Training commands:
- Initiate a "SAY PLEASE" protocol. Identify the things in life your dog values. Pets, food, toys, walks, going outside, getting in car are just a few. Require the dog to ask permission for these items by getting a sit before releasing with "okay" to get the real life reward.
- Teach "DROP". Start with objects that are not highly valued or guarded. Ask for him to drop the object and then present a treat right to his nose. He will drop the item to get the treat and then give the object back. Eventually the treat is not necessary and you can practice having him drop the item to get it right back. Then gradually work with more highly valued objects.
- Teach "OFF". Get him to come up on couch by patting the couch or luring with a cookie. Don't give the treat yet. Say "off", lure him back on the floor, and then give the treat.
Rehearsals:
The most critical element in establishing a great conditioned emotion response to approaching a guarded object is the order of events in the training session. In an object exchange exercise, the approach, touch, or removal of object must precede the delivery of the treat. Dogs get excited when they see the leash because the walk comes afterwards not before. This should be done with the guidance of a qualified Wags & Wiggles behavior consultant. This would provide you with sample rehearsal schedules that can be done in a safe manner.
Other Resources:
Wags & Wiggles Training Facility, Laurie Zurborg - CPDT: www.wagsandwiggles.com
Association of Pet Dog Trainers: www.apdt.com
Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists: www.animalbehavior.org
Aggressive Behavior in Dogs - Chat Group: www.groups.yahoo.com/group/agbeh/
Suzanne Clothier Behavior articles: www.flyingdogpress.com
"MINE, A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs", written by Jean Donaldson - available at www.dogwise.com
"FIGHT, A Practical Guide to the Treatment of Dog-Dog Aggression", written by Jean Donaldson
