I just wanted to tell you how grateful I am for you and your staff! Tonka has done so good since
our private lessons to socialize him with other dogs. His aggressive behavior
towards other dogs has significantly reduced on leash. The group class portion of the program
gave me the practice *I* needed around real life situations. Now that Tonka can attend daycare, it's
truly amazing. I have had to drop Tonka off everyday this week and he couldn't be
happier! We found out on Monday that the little baby girl we are
adopting came to the world 5 weeks early! The timing was perfect and it is such a relief to know
that he is not being left at home feeling desserted while I drive 25
miles to the hospital everyday!
Much Appreciated,
Amie & Tonka Starks
DOG-DOG AGGRESSION
One of the most embarrassing behavior problems for dog owners to deal with is dog-dog aggression. Some dogs act aggressively towards strange dogs on-leash, start fights at dog park, or fight with other dogs in the home. Some aggressive acts are normal parts of dog behavior to resolve conflict within the pact. Snips, snarls, growls between well-socialized dogs can actually prevent a larger conflict. Older dogs may teach puppies boundaries using these techniques. However, dogs who don't have good social skills due to genetic predisposition or lack of socialization may misinterpret these signs and accelerate into fighting. Most often the owners reaction to their dog's behavior will play a significant role on whether the dog will act normally or end up becoming aggressive. Resource guarding is an extremely serious issue that should be immediately addressed with a Wags & Wiggles behavior consultant before any action is taken.
Common Types of Dog-Dog aggression:
Coming on too strong: Some dogs react in a hyper state when they see other dogs. Usually whining intensely, bouncing around, and rearing up on their back feet. If allowed to get closer, they may get stiff, or jump on the other dog and start to growl. These dogs often did not get off leash play with other dogs when growing up and lack appropriate greeting skills.
Body sensitive: These dogs get overly nervous and lack confidence when other dogs enter their personal space. They use growling and snarling to try to back the other dog off. Owners perceive their dogs to be reserved and then one day the owner is surprised when the volcano blows and the dogs lunges, snapping viciously at a dog passing by. Understanding your dog's body language and learning to protect your dog is critical to preventing and curing this type of aggression.
Dog-dog resource guarding: This can occur on-leash when dogs guard their owners from other dogs. This can also occur in the home environment when dogs take guarding possessions, beds, or toys to an unacceptable level that leads to fights. Fights occur when one or both dogs don't back off to the normal warning growl or snap.
The Bully: Some dogs become bullies. Even dogs who have been well-socialized can become bullies. Usually the bullying starts in adolescence at the dog park or while playing in the backyard and the owner does not intervene so that dog becomes an expert at harassing other dogs.
Got Play?: Some dogs turn normal play into a fight. Most dogs exchange roles frequently during play. They switch from the one biting to the one getting bit, the one chasing to the one getting chase, the one pinning to the one getting pinned. Some dogs don't make the switch or don't let the other dog get away to diffuse the situation and a fight will ensue. Letting dogs work it out for themselves in this situation can make the problem worse. Owners need to set rules for their dogs when playing or if the dog attends daycare, the supervising staff needs to be educated (like at Wags & Wiggles) to intervene in these situations.
Getting high from fighting: Some dogs enjoy fighting. They are frequently bred to fight and be good at it. These dogs should not be allowed to be off leash with other strange dogs.
Breaking up dog conflicts:
Make a loud noise using pots banging together, blow horn, whistle, or whatever is handy.
Use Direct Stop. This is a concentrated citronella spray that can be sprayed into the faces of one or both dogs. See www.premier.com to purchase.
Always have a leash handy when your dog is playing with other dogs. This way you can get him out of the situation quickly and easily.
Grab one or both dogs by the tail or the hind legs, lifting upwards and pulling them apart. Be aware that anytime you use your own body to separate fighting dogs, there is a good chance you will get bit yourself.
When groups of dogs play together, it is always a good idea to have a timeout area designated so owners can interrupt inappropriate behavior and diffuse the situation before it gets out of hand.
Behavior Modification Methods:
Desensitization: A technique used originally with people who have phobias. Used with dogs to expose them to a fear evoking object or situation at an intensity that does not produce a response. With a defensive dog, you don't want to start with a young punk dog bouncing around within 3 feet of your dog. You start at a lower level (with a calm dog) because no good arises from letting the dog rehearse and perfect its usual growly behavior.
Counter Conditioning: One event becomes a predictable indicator of another event. With dog aggression, we work towards the strange dog approaching your dog to mean a pleasant outcome for the dog. For most dogs when the leash comes out, it elicits an excited reaction since the walk that is coming is pleasant. When an aggressive dog has felt upset and tense when a dog approached him, after conditioning he loves and looks forward to being approached.
Desensitization & Counter Conditioning working hand in hand: Actual treatment is keeping the trigger (strange dog) at a low enough intensity (desensitization) to where a pleasant stimulus can follow and be effective (counter conditioning).
Teaching Commands: Improving obedience is also an essential element to treatment. This improves the relationship between humans and the dog and develops a communication system that doesn't involve force or getting into physical conflicts with the dog.
Treatment Plan:
The treatment plan should be designed by a professional behavior consultant, such as a Wags & Wiggles consultant. The plan will dramatically be altered depending on whether your dog is a bully, a defensive fighter, body sensitive, resource guarder, lack social skills, or a dog that loves to fight. Usually the plan includes a combination of reducing arousal levels through counter conditioning, teaching appropriate meet & greet behavior on & off leash, teaching loose leash walking, and remedial play skills with trained dogs that have even temperaments.
Management means avoiding the problem or trigger through environmental control. Crate training or other confinement training can help during high arousal periods. Use of tie down (tether), gentle leader, or muzzle during treatment periods can lower the risk during treatment. Many dogs will need to be conditioned to the muzzle or they make act aggressive when trying to put on the muzzle. Management also means sometimes avoiding confrontation.
Example 1: Usually walk your dog during non-peak times (early or late in the day). Then someone comes around the corner and ambushes you. If there is enough time, shout to the owner that your dog is nervous, you want them to move away and your dog will bite. Some dog owners may say "well my dog is friendly". By saying that your dog may bite (even if they never have) will communicate to the other owner to go away. If there is not enough time or you are uncomfortable confronting other dog owners, teach your dog an about turn and get behind a car to block your dog's view.
Example 2: On a walk, you encounter a loose dog. If you can't find a secure spot, face the oncoming dog, point right at them and yell "GO HOME". If you are an owner who is nervous in these situations, carrying Direct Stop may be a better option.
Redirect your dog's head and attention when approaching strange dogs. Teaching the dog "watch me" (looking at your face) will redirect their gaze to you and diffuse the situation. Teaching the dog to "find it" by dropping treats on the ground will also redirect their gaze away from the other dog.
Hand targeting (teaching your dog to touch your palm) can also redirect your dog's head away from the oncoming threat and diffuse the situation.
Owner Compliance plays a key role. If your dog fights, STOP taking him to dog park and get help. When you are walking your dog, don't keep the leash tight. You are sending signals to your dog to be on alert because there is trouble ahead. Learn the difference between normal dog play and the warning signs that a fight is looming. Don't punish your dog from snapping or growling at other dogs. You will just teach him that he was right and other dogs are bad. He will associate the punishment with the dog and not the behavior you are trying to extinguish. By using punishment, you may take away your dog's appropriate response to rude dog behavior and the only thing they will have left is to bite and do damage. Using punishment may also result in "re-directed aggression" on the owner and attacking the owner. The dog feels frustrated usually by a leash or fence that is preventing him from going after the strange dog, the owner applies punishment, and the dog turns on the owner. Now you can see why using a Wags & Wiggles behavior consultant is crucial.
Teaching play skills:
Many people come to Wags & Wiggles to get their dogs to be more social. Off-leash play with large play groups can either be a positive or negative experience for an unsocial dog. Some dogs are happy go lucky despite a lack of socialization and do well. Others get defensive or just want to practice being a bully and can be made worse by large group play. The best way to teach good play skills to the uneducated dog is through a private lesson with a Wags & Wiggles behavior consultant. We use our own socially appropriate dogs to encourage healthy play in your dog. This will give the owner the opportunity to observe normal and abnormal body language.
Other Resources:
Wags & Wiggles Training Facility, Laurie Zurborg - CPDT: www.wagsandwiggles.com
Association of Pet Dog Trainers: www.apdt.com
Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists: www.animalbehavior.org
Aggressive Behavior in Dogs - Chat Group: www.groups.yahoo.com/group/agbeh/
Suzanne Clothier Behavior articles: www.flyingdogpress.com
"MINE, A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs", written by Jean Donaldson - available at www.dogwise.com
"FIGHT, A Practical Guide to the Treatment of Dog-Dog Aggression", written by Jean Donaldson
